Ceritas
NORTH COAST, CALIFORNIA
At a dinner I hosted about five years ago in Brooklyn with a visiting restaurant dignitary from San Francisco and a few local wine industry folks, my husband decanted a bottle of white to pour blind. We obsessed over the majestic liquid in our glasses for the better part of an hour as it unveiled layer upon layer of mineral expression, edged with a faint sultry hint of Burgundian reduction, arguing over which Puligny- or Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru it came from. The reveal: A 2012 Porter-Bass Vineyard Chardonnay from a little producer then just seven vintages in, run by the husband and wife team of John Raytek and Phoebe Bass.
Ceritas is the culmination of the couple’s talents and experiences. Raytek honed his skills in the cellars of Flowers, Rhys and Copain and made the wines for Matt and Sara Licklider’s LIOCO label from 2011 until 2017. Bass was raised side by side with vines on the very biodynamic vineyard that eye-opening bottle bore the name of, which her family has farmed since 1980. Few California producers are as in tune with the vineyards they work with as Raytek and Bass, as they seem to know the sites’ most intimate details, “wear the dirt,” and make their decisions in the winery accordingly. The sites are farmed organically and sustainably, and the wines undergo long fermentations using indigenous yeasts in old barrels, with some whole clusters for the reds.
The Wines
“marena” Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
variety: chardonnay soil type: shale, sandstone & sandy loam
avg vine age: 38 years
Fruit for “marena” hails from the Porter-Bass and Charles Heintz vineyards. The former is a biodynamically farmed site situated between ridgelines in Pocket Canyon, benefitting from the cooling influence of morning and afternoon Pacific fogs. The Chardonnay here is Old Wente Clone, planted in 1980, when the Bass family relocated to the farm. Charles Heintz is a more sun-soaked site due to its situation above the fog line, tempered by ocean breezes.
Charles Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
variety: chardonnay soil type: sandy loam avg vine age: 39 years
Just east of the town of Occidental, Charles Heintz Vineyard lies above the fog line on a soil comprised of classic Goldridge loam. When “Charlie” laid down these Chardonnay vines in 1980, it was the westernmost planting of the variety, and the Rayteks now share the organically farmed section with a fellow winery. This wine gets its richness from ample sunshine and is tempered by bright acidity and mineral notes.
Porter Bass Vineyard Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
variety: chardonnay soil type: shale & sandstone avg vine age: 39 years
Phoebe Bass (wife of winemaker John Raytek and co-owner of Ceritas) grew up farming this vineyard, where her family relocated in 1980 to restore the abandoned property surrounded by redwood forest. Perched between ridgelines in Pocket Canyon, it benefits from the cooling influence of morning and afternoon Pacific fogs. The Chardonnay here is farmed biodynamically, and the blocks destined for Ceritas are located on the north-facing side, allowing for an extended growing season.
“costalina” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
variety: pinot noir soil type: sandstone, schist & quartz avg vine age: 38 years
Fruit for “costalina” hails from West Sonoma Coast sites, including Hellenthal, Elliott, Occidental and Porter-Bass, each lending its own character to the final blend. Hellenthal typically lends earth, Elliott floral notes and juicy acidity, Occidental mineral depth and Porter-Bass rich fruit. A lower percentage of whole clusters (15%) is used compared to the vineyard designates, and the resulting wine ages in 15% new oak for 16 months.
Hellenthal “Old Shop Block” Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
variety: pinot noir soil type: sandstone avg vine age: 35 years
Raytek and Bass consider themselves lucky to be able to farm the oldest vines on this property—a site just east of Hirsch Vineyards in the Sonoma Coast AVA. The vines are own-rooted Calera clone and are dry farmed, resulting in concentrated flavor and a more direct relationship to the soil. 80% whole clusters are used, with no cold soaking, and the wine is aged in barrel for 11 months.
Elliott Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
variety: pinot noir soil type: sandstone & quartz avg vine age: 38 years
Elliott Vineyard is situated between Hellenthal and the east side of the Hirsch Vineyard and is organically and dry farmed. Its Mt. Eden clone vines produce very small clusters, which are harvested in multiple passes. The upper and lower sections of the vineyard are vinified separately, and 50% whole clusters are used. The resulting wine is aged in 20% new oak for 16 months.
Peter Martin Ray Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon
variety: cabernet sauvignon soil type: shale avg vine age: 35 years
Just one ridge south of Monte Bello, at 1,800 feet in elevation, Peter Martin Ray is the highest site Raytek and Bass farm. With its poor Franciscan shale soils and very little topsoil, the vines’ constant struggle for water and nutrients results in small berries on tiny clusters, concentrated with mineral flavors, intense red-toned fruit, and wild herb aromas.
Ceritas in the News
For Pinot Noir, Put Anderson Valley Among California’s Best: Top producers have swarmed to the region in Mendocino to make restrained, nuanced wines. Read More…
